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Let me tell you somethin’ about a Friday fish fry in Pickens, Arkansas.
Now, I know y’all might think I’m carryin’ on, but nothin’ feels more like a Southern summer moment than a Friday fish fry. And if you ask my mama, it’s perfectly fine to have it every week, all year-round. That’s why, when we found ourselves anywhere near Desha County on a Friday in May, we high-tailed it through the Delta like we had somewhere to be, because we did. Our sights were set on one thing: the fish plate at the Pickens Commissary.
We nearly cut it too close. Rolling in midway through lunch hour, we managed to grab the table by the front door. I overheard the kitchen calling out orders, and I’m pretty sure we got the last full plate of Friday fish. Thank goodness we had already agreed to split; she gave me half of her fish, and I handed over half of my steak sandwich as if we were bartering in a church potluck line.
But what ended up on our plate was merely half the story of this place.
The Pickens’ Name That Means Something
Before you can truly appreciate what’s coming out of that kitchen, you need to know something about the name on the sign. If you’re local, you simply call it The Commissary. However, R.A. Pickens and Sons Co. Store is more than just a restaurant; it’s part of the Delta’s living history.
In 1881, the Pickens family settled in this part of southeast Arkansas with the expansion of the St. Louis Iron Mountain Railroad, creating more than just a homestead; they built a town. What began as the Pickens Plantation at Walnut Lake, established by two brothers, evolved into a vibrant community featuring a post office, mercantile, and train depots during a time when the railroads stitched the Delta together like a quilt. It was renamed “Pickens” in 1932 to honor the family that owned nearly 15,000 acres of rich farmland by then.
At one point, over 500 people worked this land, from cotton fields to sawmills to gins. At the heart of it all was the commissary, a mercantile store that kept everything running smoothly. The original wooden store burned down in 1948 and was replaced by a brick structure. Today, that long brick building with curved roofs still stands proudly beside the Great River Road Scenic Byway.
It’s as simple as it looks
From the outside, the Pickens Store looks like a farm store, and it is. They sell feed, work gloves, overalls, holiday shirts, and kids’ toys. The back still hosts the offices for the Pickens family businesses. But if you walk through those doors between 6:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., Monday through Friday, you’ll find some of the finest home-cooked food anywhere.
It’s counter service, so don’t hesitate. Check out the daily specials on the blackboard, and be sure to notice if anything has been chalk-marked off. You simply walk up and place your order, then grab a tea and settle down at a table. Locals might glance at you, but remember, you’re the newest face in a story they already know by heart.
So, What’s Cookin’?
I hope you came hungry because it’s a big portion of platefuls, and you’ll find delight in every bite.
- Monday through Thursday? Expect the usual suspects like smothered pork chops, meatloaf, fried chicken, and the occasional smothered steak. All are accompanied by sides that taste like your grandma made them while wearing her house dress and apron.
- Fridays? Honey, it’s catfish time. Crispy on the outside, flaky on the inside, seasoned perfectly with a crumbly cornmeal crust. It’s cut into strips just like my grandad did on the riverbanks. It comes with two sides and two rounded ball Hush Puppies.
- Sides? They offer turnip greens, corn casserole, coleslaw, black-eyed peas, cabbage, squash dressing, and a few more daily options. If you’re struggling to decide, just go with the veggie plate and bless yourself.
- Salads? Yes, ma’am, even the farm boys occasionally order a salad plate with a piece of fish sitting pretty on the side. You can choose from fruit salad, chicken salad, or plain lettuce salad.
- The Beef? Yeah, it’s from the farm. The Pickens Herefords bring everything they have for the chicken fried plate lunch or steak sandwich, and let me tell you, you can taste the tender difference in every bite!
- And the pie. Lord have mercy, the pie. They usually have chocolate and coconut. I also heard a few guys ask for fresh cookies when they walked in.
Let’s Talk About That Pie
Now listen up: order your pie when you place your food order. I don’t care if you’re full. I don’t care if you “might want dessert later.” If you don’t claim your slice, someone else will.
All they had left the day we went was coconut, which worked out just fine. With one bite, I was transported straight to a family reunion in my Papa’s backyard, sitting under the shade tree by “Big Blue” with my cousins and a paper plate on my lap. Only two women in my family ever made a pie that good, my grandma and her sister and I’ll be honest, this one could’ve held its own at that table. It was so dang good that I wanted to wave a hankie in the air. We really should have just ordered a second piece instead of sharing!
What You Need to Know:
- Yes, it’s just across the railroad tracks. Enter it into your GPS and trust it, but stay alert near the bridge or you’ll miss the turn.
- Yes, come as you are. Field boots, church shoes or flip-flops, all are welcome.
- Yes, the regulars will notice that you’re new. That’s part of the charm. Just smile and nod.
- Yes, the rice comes with brown gravy. Don’t question it; it’s the Delta way.
- Yes, go ahead and get the pie. (Did I mention that already? Well, I’m saying it again.)
- Yes, they serve breakfast until 10 a.m.
- Yes, they accept credit cards.
- Yes, it truly is that good.
Pickens Commissary is more than a restaurant; it’s a Southern Arkansas rite of passage, a taste of tradition, and a Delta story shared one plate at a time.
Pickens Commissary
122 Pickens Road | Pickens
870-382-5266
Hours: Monday – Friday | 6:30 AM-4:30 PM
Saturday – Sunday | Closed
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